Il Postino is a throwback to the days of elegant excess, when an army of waiters in white coats manned dining rooms full cigar smoking tuxedos and bejeweled silk gowns. Those days echo through the dining room in the guise of loyal crowds not light on cash who keep the small, bi-level dining room hopping.

From the street, enter though a discreet white door and into another world. A small bar clings to the wall while a display of portabello mushrooms, roma tomatoes and other fresh ingredients greets those headed for the elevated dining area. Once you are seated, a waiter lights the single taper candle on your table, and then regales you with a basket of bread, a dish of olive oil and rosemary sprigs, a plate of marinated zucchini and a plate of chopped endive and scallop salad. Think of this moment as the orchestra tuning their instruments.

Soon, an avuncular gentleman with a voice as big as Magna Graeca arrives at your table to recite the menu. Listen and watch carefully. When sheer joy wafts across his face, you know which dish to order. Prices are not important, although if the dish is extraordinarily expensive, like the ravioli with shaved truffles, he will discreetly let the guest know ($75 in this case). If so inspired, he may sing.

Service is old world attentive, the staff right there to meet your every need, without sticking their noses into your business, or telling you their names, or interrupting you when your mouth is full. It is difficult for even the crankiest New Yorker to complain that something was or wasn’t there, or to feel that they are not the number one guest in the dining room. In fact, it is hard to be cranky here. The lively voices of the waiters and the fiercely loyal crowd make the evening an event, leaning always towards the jubilant.

The food is Italian, with the occasional Americanized item that no one seems to notice. There are no menus (there are, but no one asks for them), and if you don’t like the sound of verbal list, the kitchen “will make whatever you want”. It’s hard to complain that something isn’t to order when you can order whatever you like, however you want it.

The pasta dishes are well done, as are the seafood and fish selections. The best items to order are the scallops, the octopus carpaccio, the branzino and the red snapper. Less impressive are the grilled steaks. Best to stick with lamb or veal if you do not want fish. Desserts are nicely portioned – enough to satisfy and perhaps share, but not overwhelming. The tiramisu and tartuffo are signature choices, but try the lemon sorbet, which will bring back memories of those heady, Mediterranean nights, when you did not heave to worry about mortgages and retirement accounts but could spend your time wandering beaches and enjoying views and perhaps a little romance. Yes, it is amazing what a fine lemon sorbet can do.

Great place to bring out-of-town family or boisterous friends who are looking for a different kind of experience. While there are plenty of romantic elements packed into this small space, the frenetic dining room makes romantic conversation difficult. Best to go for the purpose of sharing stories, and be prepared to spend $100 per person.